BEFORE YOU GET ON THE FIELD
1.Check your goggles and make sure the strap is secure on the frames and check
to ensure the lenses are properly in place. Make sure they're clean.
2.Make sure you have your squeegee.
3.Check to see if your tubes or bulk loaders are topped up.
AFTER YOU GET TO THE FLAGSTATION/STARTING POINT
1.Remember to take your barrel plug out.
2.Make sure your paintmarker is loaded, the CO2 is on and it's cocked and ready to fire.
COVER AND CONCEALMENT, THE SAME THINGS?
No, they are not the same thing. Think of it this way.
- Cover: it will stop a paintball, but will not
hide you. A pane of lexan (goggle lense material), for instance.
- Concealment: it will allow you to hide, but may not
stop a paintball. A wall of paper is a good example.
Most times, you'll get both. Don't rely on it, one hundred percent of the
time. Just remember, the bush may hide you, but it might not stop a paintball.
Also with cover, when you are using vertical cover, like a tree trunk, you
should stand at least an arms length away. This way the tree will cover you
better from your opponent's point of view, and it does not obscure your vision
as much.
MOVEMENT
THE BEST WAY TO MOVE (WHEN YOU'RE NOT BEING SHOT AT)
Unless the other team knows where you are (indicated by the fact that they're
shooting at you) take your time. The faster you move, the more noise you're
going to make. If you have the time, take it. You can have speed, or silence,
but not both. You'll know when to use one or the other.
If you are moving on someone try to keep obstacles between your eyes and his,
even a slender tree may hide you from their vision.
Also, while you are moving, you should keep your paintmarker "at the
ready" position.
When in a game, but not in the action, you must have your paintmarker ready at
all times, but still carry it in a comfortable position.
For a rifle, or any paintmarker with a stock, the butt
us clamped against your side (in the space between your rib cage and your waist)
by your right arm (on the opposite side if you shoot left handed). The barrel is
pointed up and held so the muzzle (end of the barrel) is slightly below eye
level, with your left hand on the pump or forestock. The muzzle should follow
your eyes as you scan the terrain. When held this way, your paintmarker is
always pointed in front of you should you acquire a target.
When holding the paintmarker in this fashion you can do one of two things: a
very quick hip shot or a quick and aimed shot from the shoulder.
For a hip shot, bring the muzzle down. The index
finger of the hand on the pump/fore end should be pointing down the barrel. Your
eye and index finger align almost perfectly to where you are pointing. With your
index finger pointing along the line of the barrel, it will help you
"aim" that much better.
For shooting from the shoulder, when the target is at a
greater range and there is more time to aim (relatively speaking) the
paintmarker should be brought to the shoulder. This is done very simply,
although the explanation seems complicated, the actual doing is better than the
telling. The paintmarker is pushed out, keeping the muzzle on the target. The
stock is swung up to meet the shoulder and once it is in line with the shoulder,
is brought in and held snugly (not tightly). The head is brought down to use the
sights. Seeing how you kept the muzzle of the paintmarker more or less on the
target, you should only need a minuscule adjustment to properly sight in on your
intended target.
If you are toting a pistol, the principle is the same, but
the technique differs slightly. For pistoleros, the pistol is held in
your normal shooting hand either in a two handed grip on the pistol or with the
non-shooting hand on the pump/fore end. The muzzle is still held at eye level
and tracks with your eyes when you scan. A very important thing to remember is
to keep your elbows down at your sides. If you don't the muscles will be
supporting the weight of your arms and the pistol and will tire quickly. When
you acquire a target the pistol is pushed out towards it, keeping the muzzle on
the target.
With practice these methods are very easy to master. Most master the basic
concept with the first time they try it. Incidentally, these methods were
developed from shooting skeet and trap with a shotgun.
THE BEST WAY TO MOVE (WHEN YOU ARE BEING SHOT AT)
The idea is to move as fast as possible, in short bursts, to prevent your
opponent from drawing a bead on you. As a rule of thumb, it takes about three
seconds for a person to recognize, acquire, sight in and shoot at a target that
pops up unexpectantly. You don't want to give them three seconds. You also don't
want to "telegraph" your movement. When you're ready to go, then GO!
Don't try a "head fake", or any fancy stuff like that. You're robbing
yourself of your three second advantage.
BASIC TEAM TACTICS
Okay, these are really simple. I mean, my dog understands them. They are
effective BECAUSE they are simplistic.
BASIC OFFENSIVE TACTICS
1.First, you should designate a small group of players to act as a flanking
party. These players will automatically break off and flank the opposition when
you encounter them. If you designate specific players to do this before the
game, you don't have worry about confusion on who is going to go during the
game. I remember being up front and saying "A couple of you flank
around." When I turned around, they were ALL gone flanking! The Flanking
Party should stay to the back, so they don't get hit during initial contact.
2.It's also wise to stay in one group. If you break up into smaller groups, the
opposition will eliminate them quickly, if they were smart enough to stay in a
group.
3.The best way to win is to avoid the opposition altogether. It's fun to shoot
your friends, but if you want to win, you'll want as many people as you can get
into the flag station.
4.When you get to the flag station, send your flanking party around to the other
side to divert attention. Once the defenders start moving and advancing on the
flankers, you rush in and shoot a few butts. This only works if the defenders
don't see the main body.
BASIC DEFENSIVE TACTICS
Defenders are only there to slow down the opposition. By definition, they are
DEFENDING, not stopping. The longer you can slow down the opposition, the better
it will be for your attackers.
You should only have a few defenders, and those who will not break and run at
the first sign of trouble. Incidentally, the most tenacious defenders I've ever
gone up against have been women. I don't know why, but they're more determined
than their male team mates. (That doesn't mean you should leave the ladies on
defence all day, guys.)
WHAT TO DO WHEN YOU HAVE THE OPPOSITION'S FLAG
Everyone makes the same mistake. You grab the flag and you take off, leaving the
opponent's flag station empty. What happens if they have YOUR flag and they're
halfway back. They're going to hang the flag while you're still huffin' and
puffin' down the trail. Leave a few players back to give the opposition a little
surprise, and give you a little more time to get to your flag station.
When you get to your flag station, make sure it's clear; the bad guys may have
read this too.
Don't let the guy who grabs the flag run off half-cocked. Make sure there are a
few players in front of him and a few players behind. Most times the opposition
doesn't realize you have their flag until you pass them. Now they're behind you,
which is why you have a few players taking up the rear.
No matter what:
NEVER LEAVE THE OPPOSITION'S FLAG STATION UNATTENDED!
WHAT TO DO IF THE OPPOSITION HAS YOUR FLAG
Where are they going to go with your flag? That's right, THEIR flag station.
Don't try to second guess which route they're going to take back. Beat feet to
their flag station and wait for them there. They usually come running in,
thinking (and acting) like they already won. Then, you let them have it!
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